Regardless whether you are a current, previous or first-time pet owner, a little advance planning can make the entire experience more rewarding.  Since Falls Road Veterinary Hospital sees only dogs and cats, I’ll confine my discussion to these species.  I love to get calls from prospective pet owners before the decision is made.  I’d rather set the record straight in advance than deal with “buyer’s remorse” if the choice is ill-conceived. 

            One of the most important considerations in pet selection is your own resources of time, space and money.  A cat or small dog may be a better choice for your family when resources are more limited.  Cats and small dogs eat less than larger dogs.  Cost of boarding, grooming and some veterinary services are proportionally less for smaller pets.  A cat or small dog may find plenty of space to run and play in an apartment, where a larger dog requires either more space to run or more time spent walking for exercise.  If you are a renter, you may be limited to a certain size of pet (if your landlord permits them at all-ask first!).  Home owners generally have more latitude in this regard.  If you travel frequently, you may find it easier to travel with a smaller pet.

             The age of your future pet may be another consideration.  By adopting a puppy or kitten, you start from scratch with everything, which may give you the most flexibility if producing the pet you want to own.  However, babies of any species are time consuming.  Training needs tend to be more intensive for puppies than for kittens, but both can be mischievous and destructive without the proper supervision.  If you would prefer to skip ahead a bit, selecting an older pet might suit your lifestyle better. 

            Once you have a general idea of the type of pet you would like to own, you can get more specific with your search.  In broad terms, your next decision may involve whether to acquire a pure-bred or a mixed breed pet.  If you are interested in a pure-bred animal, sources include (but are not limited to) private breeders or pet stores.  The former may be able to provide more specific background information about the pet you select. You are likely to meet one or both parents, to judge their temperament and appearance for yourself.  Many people with allergies favor pure-bred, non-shedding breeds to minimize the chances of allergic reactions. However, searching for a private breeder usually requires more research on your part.  There is also the matter of delayed gratification, as puppy production is not a predictable science!  The latter choice can provide both convenience and a wider selection of breeds, which can be helpful if you are undecided in choosing a specific breed of dog.

            Another great option in your search is the local humane society or rescue organization.  These wonderful organizations offer by far the widest choice of pets:  adults and juveniles, pure-bred and mixed breeds, dogs and cats.  For a nominal fee, you can find your new family member and often save a life in the process.         

            Pure-bred pets may have some advantages in terms of predictability.  By selecting a pure-bred pet, you have a better sense of size, temperament and genetic problems.  Mixed breeds might offer “hybrid vigor” and fewer problems, but mixed parentage is never a guarantee of perfect health.  Generally, the up-front purchase price of a pure-bred pet is far greater than that of a mixed breed.  The exception to this is the recent trend for “designer dogs,” a cross between two (or more) pure-bred breeds with catchy names. 

            Don’t forget the purchase or adoption price of your pet is NOT all-inclusive!  Besides supplies such as food, leashes, collars with tags, beds, toys, litter, and scratching posts (all depending upon whether a dog or cat lives with you), you need to plan for routine medical care costs as well.  If your pet has ongoing medical problems, regular checkups, medications and tests may be required.  Those pure-bred dogs which do not shed need to have regular grooming care. Dog training may be part of the big picture, especially if you adopt a puppy.  Travel or boarding costs may also be a factor, unless you have a wide circle of animal-loving friends with whom you can trade babysitting services!   By evaluating different scenarios, you may revise your expectations as to what type of pet best suits your circumstances.

            If you already have a pet at home, you want to consider compatibility issues as well.  This may be the hardest thing to predict.  After all, who really knows what goes on their little pea brains? It is great to have an opportunity for your current and future pets to meet before living together, but this isn’t always possible.  You can usually expect several days or weeks of adjustment upon introducing a new pet (sometimes it is the owner, rather than the new pet, getting the cold shoulder!).  Hopefully once that time has elapsed, you will find owning a dog or cat to be a source of joy, companionship and love for many years to come.

WHAT IS IT?

“Kennel cough” is an infectious bronchitis characterized by a harsh, hacking cough which most people describe as sounding like “something stuck in my dog’s throat.” It is analogous to a chest cold for humans and is only a serious condition in special circumstances (see below); in general, it resolves on its own. A dog with Kennel Cough generally feels active and maintains a normal appetite despite frequent fits of coughing. There is usually no fever or listlessness, just lots of coughing.

NOT SURE WHAT A COUGHING DOG SOUNDS LIKE?

Dogs can make an assortment of respiratory sounds. Usually a cough is very recognizable but it is important to be aware of another sound called a “reverse sneeze.” The reverse sneeze is often mistaken for a cough, for a choking fit, for sneezing, for retching, or even for gasping for breath. In fact, the reverse sneeze represents a post-nasal drip or “tickle in the throat.” It is considered normal especially for small dogs or dogs and only requires attention if it is felt to be “excessive.” The point here is to know a cough when you see one. A cough can be dry or “productive,” meaning it is followed by a gag, swallowing motion, production of foamy mucus (not to be confused with vomiting). 

A coughing dog that has a poor appetite, fever, and/or listlessness should be evaluated for by a Veterinarian.

HOW INFECTION OCCURS?

The infected dog sheds infectious bacteria and/or viruses in respiratory secretions. These secretions become aerosolized and float in the air to be inhaled by a healthy dog.

The normal respiratory tract has substantial safeguards against invading infectious agents. The most important of these is probably what is called the “mucociliary escalator.” This safeguard consists of tiny hair-like structures called “cilia”, which protrude from the cells lining the respiratory tract, and extend into a coat of mucus over them. The cilia beat in a coordinated fashion through the lower and more watery mucus layer called the “sol.” A thicker mucus layer called the “gel” floats on top of the sol. Debris, including infectious agents, get trapped in the sticky gel and the cilia move them upward towards the throat where the collection of debris and mucus may be coughed up and/or swallowed.

The mucociliary escalator is damaged by the following:

• shipping stress
• crowding stress
• heavy dust exposure
• cigarette smoke exposure
• infectious agents (viruses such as reovirus, adenovirus, parainfluenza virus, and even the distemper virus can be initiating infections).
• Cold temperature
• Poor ventilation

Without this protective mechanism, invading bacteria, especially Bordetella bronchiseptica, the chief agent of Kennel Cough, may simply march down the airways unimpeded.

Bordetella bronchiseptica organisms have some tricks of their own as well:

• They are able to bind directly to cilia, rendering them unable to move within 3 hours of contact.
• They secrete substances that disable the immune cells normally responsible for consuming & destroying bacteria.

Because it is common for Bordetella to be accompanied by at least one other infectious agent (such as one of the viruses listed below), “Kennel Cough” is actually a complex of infections, rather than infection by one agent.

Classically, dogs get infected when they are kept in a crowded situation with poor air circulation but lots of warm air (i.e. a boarding kennel, vaccination clinic, obedience class, local park, animal shelter, animal hospital waiting room, or grooming parlor). In reality, most causes of coughing that begin acutely in the dog are due to infectious causes and usually represent some form of Kennel Cough.

THE INCUBATION PERIOD IS 2 – 14 DAYS

HOW IS DIAGNOSIS MADE?

Usually the history of exposure to a crowd of dogs within the proper time frame plus typical examination findings (coughing dog that otherwise feels well) is adequate to make the diagnosis. Radiographs show bronchitis, though severe cases can progress to pneumonia, especially if the canine distemper virus is involved.

HOW CONTAGIOUS IS IT?

Bordetella infection can be picked up by rabbits, guinea pigs, pigs, cats (if they are very young and housed in groups), and other dogs. Bordetella is generally not considered contagious to humans though it is closely related to Bordetella pertussis, the agent of Whooping Cough. Immune-suppressed humans potentially could be infected.

Among dogs Kennel Cough is fairly contagious depending on stress level, vaccination status, and exposure to minor viruses. Dogs shed Bordetella organisms for up to 3 months after infection.

Our hospital recommends keeping all dogs current on their Bordetella vaccinations
as you never know when they will be in an unexpected situation.

HOW IS KENNEL COUGH TREATED?

Although most cases will go away on their own, we like to think we can hasten recovery with antibiotics to directly kill the Bordetella organism. Alternatively, Kennel Cough may be treated with cough suppressants to provide comfort during natural recovery. Alternatively, antibiotics and cough suppressants can be combined.

WHEN IS IT A SERIOUS CONDITION?

Very young puppies, especially those with a recent shipping history (i.e. pet store puppies) are especially prone to severe cases of infectious tracheobronchitis (frequently progressing to pneumonia).

VACCINATION OPTIONS:

There are basically two options for Kennel cough vaccination: injectable and intranasal. It is important to realize that not all members of the Kennel Cough complex have a vaccine. Also, because Kennel Cough is a localized infection (meaning it is local to the respiratory tract), it is an infection that does not lend itself to prevention by vaccination. Vaccination must be regularly boosted and often vaccination simply muffles the severity of infection without completely preventing it.

INJECTABLE VACCINE
Injectable vaccination is a good choice for most dogs. For puppies, a combination of the nasal and injectable vaccinations provide good systemic immunity as long as two doses are given (approximately one month apart) after age 4 months. Boosters are generally given annually.

NASAL VACCINE
Intranasal vaccination may be given as early as 3 weeks of age and immunity generally lasts 10-12 months. (Usually this vaccine is boosted annually but if one is expecting imminent exposure as in boarding, competition, or other event with dogs together, it is optimal to boost if over 6 months have elapsed.) The advantage here is that the local immunity is stimulated, right at the site where the natural infection would be trying to take hold.

It takes 4 days to generate a solid immune response after intranasal vaccination so it is best if vaccination is given at least 4 days prior to the exposure. Some dogs will have some sneezing or nasal discharge in the week following intranasal vaccination.

There is some evidence that young puppies in a high risk environment may benefit from
both injectable and nasal vaccination (rather than simply receiving one or the other).

VACCINATION IS NOT USEFUL IN A DOG
ALREADY INCUBATING KENNEL COUGH.

WHAT IF KENNEL COUGH DOESN’T IMPROVE?

As previously noted, this infection is generally self-limiting. It should be at least improved partially after one week of treatment. If no improvement has been observed in this time, a re-check exam (possibly including radiographs of the chest) would be a good idea. Failure of Kennel Cough to resolve suggests an underlying condition. Kennel Cough can activate a previously asymptomatic collapsing trachea or the condition may have progressed to pneumonia. There is also another respiratory infection called Canine Influenza, which seemed to be a racing greyhound issue exclusively until late 2005. This infection produces fever and pneumonia but starts looking like a routine Kennel Cough. This particular infection is much more severe, highly contagious, but for now seems to be uncommon.

If you have questions about a coughing dog, do not hesitate to bring them to your local Veterinarian.

Canned Cat Food Vs. Dry Cat Food 

Most people would be surprised to hear that canned food is actually 

better for your cat than dry kibble. There are three main reasons 

for this: 

1. Canned food usually has higher quality proteins. Dry kibble is 

usually high in plant based protein versus canned food which is 

usually high in animal based protein. Cats are obligate carnivores 

which means they were made by nature to eat a meat based diet. They 

lack certain enzymes required to efficiently process plant based 

proteins. Proteins from animal sources contain a complete amino acid 

profile required by carnivores. Proteins from plant sources do not 

and cats, unlike dogs and humans, are unable to make the missing amino 

acids. Also, dry food is cooked at high temperatures for long period 

of times which decreases the quality of the proteins. 

2. Most dry kibble contains higher levels of carbohydrates than 

canned foods. High levels of carbohydrates cause problems with a 

cats blood sugar and insulin balance. These imbalances contribute 

to obesity, diabetes, cystitis, and many other common health problems. 

In nature, a cat's diet is approximately 3-5% carbohydrate which is 

what most canned foods are. Most dry foods are approximately 35-50% 

carbohydrates. 

3. Canned food contains much more water than dry food. Cats 

inherently have a low thirst drive and therefore benefit from 

getting water with their food. All urinary tracts are healthier 

with more water. Sterile cystitis, bladder stones, urinary tract 

infections, urinary obstruction (blocked male cat), etc. are very 

common conditions in our feline friend that would improve/resolve 

by taking in more moisture on a consistant basis.

If you have any questions about your cat or dogs diet, please see your local Vet!

Bloat refers to the bloating of the stomach. Essentially it is a build up of gas in the stomach which is unable to be released. Bloat with Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus (GDV) occurs when the stomach fills with gas and twists 180 to 360 degrees on its axis between the esophagus and duodenum or the entrance and exit parts of the stomach. Bloat is a very serious problem in large breed dogs. When combined with the complications of GDV, bloat is a leading cause of death of dogs, second only to cancer.

The exact cause of bloat is still unknown. Generally, it is believed that excessive eating and drinking of water followed by exercise can cause bloat. It is thought that exercise causes food or fluid in the stomach to cause a build up of gas. The severity of the conditions is more serious when the stomach twists upon itself within the abdomen in a clockwise rotation causing the inlet and outlet of the stomach as well as blood vessels which supply the stomach to become constricted at both ends. As a result, the constriction will cause the stomach tissue to die. In a very short time, the stomach becomes restricted of nutrients and oxygen. If not treated, the dog can die.

What Are the Symptoms of Canine Bloat?

- Anxious, restless
- Distended abdomen
- Attempting to vomit
- Excessive drooling
- Whining
- Pale gums
- Increase in heart rate
- Difficulty breathing

What Causes Bloat?

The stomach becomes filled with gas and because of several possible factors, the dog is unable to relieve the pressure. Bloat, with GDV, is when the stomach goes into a twist. This closes both the esophagus and pylorus, preventing the dog from relieving the gas pressure which can quickly build up after a large meal. This condition is extremely fatal, causing shock, coma and eventually death. Like many other conditions which affect our dogs, the actual cause of bloat is still unknown. Several factor seem to contribute to a dog’s chances of getting bloat:

- Stress
- Eating or drinking too fast
- Exercise before and immediately after eating
- Having a large deep chest
- Elevated food bowls
- Hereditary
- Disposition

Are All Dogs At Risk of Canine Bloat?

Canine bloat and GDV usually only effects large breed dogs, but smaller dogs are still susceptible. It is thought that some lines of breeds are genetically at a higher risk. Though bloat can occur in puppies, it is a condition which usually occurs in adult dogs. Furthermore, male dogs are more likely to suffer from bloat than female dogs. Here is a list of some breeds that have a higher chance of being effected by bloat and GDV.

- German Shepherd
- Great Dane
- Standard Poodle
- Rottweiler
- Akita
- Bloodhound
- Great Pyrenees
- Irish Setter
- Old English Sheepdog
- Boxer
- Golden Retriever
- Irish Wolfhound
- St. Bernard
- Labrador Retriever
- Newfoundland
- Doberman

What is the Treatment of Dog Bloat?

Canine bloat is a very serious problem. If you suspect your dog of having bloat, contact your vet immediately. Every second counts! If caught and diagnosed quick enough, initial treatment will involve inserting a tube or tochar into the stomach wall to remove the gas. If necessary, the vet will then operate, attempting to untwist the stomach. Secondary treatment will involve treating shock, dehydration, fatigue, and other complications resulting from the distension of the stomach.

Is There Any Way To Prevent Dog Bloat?

Prevention of bloat can be difficult. Because there are so many possible causes for this condition, prevention must be examined on an individual basis. If you have a dog that is at risk there are a couple of things that you can do to decrease the chances of this fatal condition. Since bloat is believed to be connected with genetics and hereditary, these preventive measures can only decrease the chances of bloat.

- Do not overfeed. Feed 2-3 small meals a day.
- Do not use elevated food bowls.
- Do not allow your dog to drink large amounts of water after eating.
- Add an enzyme product to your dogs food.
- Keep emergency veterinary contact information handy.
- Gastropexy surgery.

This article only provides BASIC information about canine bloat. Consulting your veterinarian is always your best source of health information.

With vaccination commonly recommended annually, most pet owners are accustomed to taking their pets to the vet for “yearly shots.” It seems such a commonplace part of routine pet care that many people do not think about what is actually occurring within their pet’s body. In fact, immunization represents stimulation of the immune system, an inherently inflammatory process. It is typical for some joint or muscle soreness to occur after vaccination, for lethargy to be observed, or for a mild fever to be present for a day or two. These reactions are not serious and generally go unnoticed. Pets may eat, drink, and exercise normally after vaccination if they want to; it is the more serious allergic reactions that need to be distinguished from the above expected phenomena.

Allergic Reactions

Allergic reactions are highly individual inflammatory responses against specific proteins entering the body. These proteins can be pollens, dusts, foods, medications, or even vaccines. Within the vaccine itself, reaction can be directed against the infectious organism, stabilizers, preservatives, or residue from the vaccine organism’s laboratory tissue culture.

An allergic reaction might include hives,
facial swelling, or even nausea.

More serious reactions can include shock
or sudden death (anaphylaxis).

The time frame after vaccination can be immediate (the Type I reaction) or anytime in the next 48 hours (the Type IV or delayed hypersensitivity reaction.)

Which Pets are likely to have Vaccination Reactions?

In October 2005, a study by Moore et al was published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Associationin which over 1 million canine medical records in over 350 separate animal hospitals were reviewed. In this study, approximately one in 250 dogs had some sort of vaccination reaction, which translated to 13 reactions for every 10,000 doses of vaccine given.

The group at greatest risk for reaction were small breed young adult (age 1-3 years) neutered male dogs. As a dog’s size increased, the risk of vaccination reaction dropped. Not surprisingly, the more vaccines were given at one time, the higher the risk of reaction. Some vaccine doses include vaccine against multiple organisms. These are called multivalent vaccines and include the basic distemper-parvo vaccine for dogs and some Bordetella vaccines. Since giving more vaccines at once is associated with increased risk of reaction, one might expect that the use of multivalent vaccines would also increase the risk of reaction, but surprisingly this was not found to be the case. Most reactions occur the same day as the vaccine is given.

What to do during the Reaction

If your pet is having a reaction more severe than just some general malaise or soreness, you should let your veterinarian know right away. If it is after hours, it is prudent to consult the local emergency clinic. Anti-inflammatory injections can be used to halt the inflammatory cascade before it gets dangerously out of hand. Be sure you know who to call in case of problems after your pet is vaccinated.

Vomiting may be a sign of an on-coming serious reaction, or could represent something as mild as car sickness. If vomiting is observed, let your veterinarian know right away.

What to do in the Future for the Pet who has had Reactions

There are many steps that can be taken to prevent allergic vaccine reactions in dogs known to have had reactions in the past:

Avoid Lyme disease, Leptospirosis, and Periodontal Vaccine
The leptospirosis portion of the DHLPP (distemper) vaccine for dogs has a reputation for being the most likely portion to cause vaccine reactions. This is largely because of the size of the organism. (Most vaccine is directed against viruses that are barely bigger than complicated molecules. The leptospirosis organism is a bacterium, meaning it is enormous and more complicated than any virus. The more complicated the organism, the more likely the reaction. That said, in the aforementioned study of over one million dogs, the leptospirosis vaccine was not found to be more likely to cause a reaction. This may be because of improved vaccine technology and using only portions of the organism rather than the entire bacterium. Other leptospirosis vaccine may not be as well produced as the one that happened to be used in this study so, as a precaution you can request that this portion be left out of your dog’s vaccine.) The Lyme disease organism is also a bacterium as is the periodontal vaccine (the Porphyromonas vaccine). Again, larger vaccine organisms tend to produce more reactions.

Avoid Giving Several Vaccinations at one Time
Keep in mind that vaccines given within two weeks of each other can interfere with each other so you do not want to separate vaccines by less than a two week period but separating vaccine can mean your pet has less stimulation to deal with at one time. Breaking up vaccines also helps determine which vaccine is the culprit.

Do Not have your Pet Vaccinated at a Vaccine Clinic
Vaccination clinics are designed to provide streamlined service for healthy pets in need of their regular immunizations. These clinics are generally not prepared for the individual attention required by a pet who has a history of vaccination reaction. A pet with a vaccine reaction history should receive some special attention in the form of observation in the hospital and/or pre-treatment with anti-inflammatory medication.

Be Sure your Veterinarian is Aware of Your Pet’s History of Vaccine Reaction
This sounds very obvious but I have seen many people at vaccination clinics wait until after the animal has been vaccinated before informing the veterinarian that the pet has a history of reactions.

Be Prepared to pay for Extra Pre-Medications and/or Observation in the Hospital
Medications can be used to head off allergic reactions before they happen, and with the use of these medications it is possible that a reacting pet can be vaccinated normally. To be safe, it is frequently recommended that the pet be observed for the rest of the day following vaccination, despite the medication. Consult your veterinarian regarding his/her recommendation. If a pet has suffered a severe or life-threatening reaction in the past, it is not worth continuing to expose the pet to the same allergen again.

Vaccination reactions severe enough to produce shock are EXTREMELY rare and are a function of an individual pet’s immune response. Vaccination is an important part of responsible pet ownership and should not be omitted without specific veterinary guidance. Every hospital has its own policy regarding what vaccines are recommended for dogs and cats in general and what vaccines are required for boarding or grooming. Vaccine recommendations differ regionally and according to the pet’s lifestyle as well as according to the philosophy of the veterinarian in charge of defining a particular hospital’s policies.

Lumps that Develop at the Injection Sites

A vaccine includes an infectious organism that is rendered harmless but still capable of stimulating the immune system. In some instances the organism is live but weakened in some way. In other instances, the organism is killed. Some vaccine is made from killed bacterial organisms rather than viral organisms and other vaccine (such as the rattlesnake bite vaccine) is made against proteins and no infectious organism is involved. The larger the organism and the more complicated the proteins, the more local inflammation results after the injection and this sometimes translates into a firm knot or bump at the injection site. Similarly killed virus vaccine is often adjuvanted, meaning stabilizers are added to keep the dead virus concentrated in one spot for maximal immune stimulation. Adjuvanted vaccines tend to produce knots as well. These growths are typically noted a few weeks following vaccination and generally resolve on their own. These are not allergic reactions but are inflammatory reactions caused by the immune stimulation of the injection. If a lump persists longer than 3 months from the time of vaccination or is greater than 2 cm in diameter any time after vaccination, then it should be removed and biopsied. This is particularly true for cats as they have the potential to develop injection site tumors.

Remember, please contact your vet right away if you notice any vaccine reation symptoms in your pet!

Despite all those age brackets there is no one hard fast rule. The best way to judge is based on the individual animal and the changes in its behavior and health. The best thing you can do for an older animal is to keep it healthy and not over or under-weight. Also, keep your animal exercised but be careful not to overdo it.

The needs of an older animal are often different so it is very important to maintain communication with much veterinarian concerning your pets and all the health problems/changes which are included in this advancing age process. There are certain things you should look for in your pet as you do your grooming rituals. Below find a list of several things to watch for.

Teeth/gums: Check your pet and see what is normal for it as “normal” may be different from one dog to another. Changes in gum color can indicate potential problems. Foul breath can be another warning sign as well as loss of weight, pawing at the mouth, excessive salivation, swallowing difficulty or other signs of pain.

Lumps/bumps: Check your pet for these as you groom the animal. Masses are common and in most cases are benign but if you find a new one of these, consult your vet to have it checked as cancer is quite common in dogs, particularly those who have not been spayed or neutered early in life.

Eyes: If you notice a change in the dogs eyes, such as a bluish-gray tint, consult with your vet to see exactly what is the cause and what treatment is involved. Cataracts, genetic diseases and other causes are often the root of sight loss in older animals.

Mobility: Arthritis is common in the older pets but other problems such as degenerative joint disease may be at the root of that stiffness in the mornings. Anti-inflammatory drugs are often prescribed to aid in this problem.

Changes in thirst and elimination: Changes such as increased thirst or having to “go” more often are indications of potential kidney issues, bladder issues or other medical problems. Check with your vet.

Body/Coat Condition: Keeping your dog in shape cuts down on a lot of potential health problems- heart disease, etc. If the coat becomes overly flaky or there is excessive hair loss, your dog may have a hormonal problem which can be diagnosed through a simple blood test.

Heart disease: Changes in sleeping habits or coughing through the night can be indicators of canine heart disease.

Frequent checkups can often prevent these types of diseases. Consult your vet.

Inspect Your Dog’s Ears Regularly By Using Your Eyes & Your Nose!
By performing a home dog ear care inspection; you will be able to detect problems early. Use both your eyes and your nose. If you need help seeing inside your dog’s ears you may want to invest in a pet scope. A tool very similar to the kind your doctor uses to check your ears. Check for redness, excessive wax build up or any other foreign matter.

Sniffing your dog’s ears is another way to detect problems early. Normally a dog’s ears shouldn’t smell foul in any way. If you see a dark waxy discharge this may be a sign of ear mites. On the other hand, if you see a pus-like discharge along with a foul smell this may be a sign of a bacterial infection. Allergies are also known to cause some dogs to have smelly ears. If you’re new to this and are unsure have the vet check your dog’s ears. Right after the vet gives your dog a clean bill of health make sure you inspect your dog’s ears. This way you will learn how your pet’s ears should normally look and smell.

Is Your Breed of Dog More Susceptible To Dog Ear Care Problems?
Due to the warm, damp, and dark environment, as well as poor air circulation, your dog’s ear canal can be the perfect breeding ground for mites, yeast or bacterial infection. This is why, for certain breeds, home dog ear care is even more important. Some pets may require routine applications of dog ear care products to keep their ears free of mites, yeast or bacterial infections.

Some dog’s ears stand straight up which allows for more air to flow into the ear canal. Dogs with floppy ears, like Spaniels and Bloodhounds, are very prone to ear infections because very little air flows into their ear canals. There are also breeds, like the Lhasa, that have a heavy growth of hair inside their ears. This hair must be routinely removed as a prevention against chronic ear problems.

Cleaning Your Dogs Ears
If your dog is prone to ear infections you may want to use a pet ear care product that is specifically formulated to clean and dry up excess moisture in the ear canal. A dog ear wash containing Tea Tree Oil, which is also formulated to dry the ear canal is an excellent choice. Tea Tree Oil’s natural antiseptic, antibacterial and fungicidal properties can help keep your dog’s ears problem free.

It’s also a good idea to use a pet ear-drying agent after bathing or swimming especially if your dog’s ears retain moisture and don’t dry promptly. There are many good pet ear care products available for routine ear cleaning that will dissolve wax, remove foreign debris and dry the ear canal.

A dog’s ear canal is L-shaped. It descends vertically and it makes a 90-degree horizontal turn before it reaches the eardrum. Even though your dog’s eardrum is better protected than a human’s, you should still proceed with caution when cleaning the ear canal. Many vets urge caution when inserting anything into the ear canal, especially cotton-tipped swabs. They can actually push dirt and foreign matter deeper into the ear if not handled properly. You can even lose the cotton tip in the ear canal.

Start cleaning the external part of the ear by swabbing inside the earflaps and all around the gnarled area at the entrance of the ear canal. If you choose to use a cotton-tipped swab you will need a long type since a dog’s ear canal is much deeper than ours. If your dog will tolerate it, gently and carefully swab the inside of the ear canal. A much safer method is to fill the ear canal with a pet ear cleaning solution and gently massage the outer ear. After a few minutes allow your dog to shake his head to help clear the ear canal. If you’re using a commercial pet ear care product be sure to follow the instructions carefully.

Make Ear Inspections An Important Part Of Your Home Dog Ear Care Routine
Checking your dog’s ears only takes a few minutes so make it a part of your dog grooming routine. And when your dog’s ears need a cleaning don’t put it off. Remember regular cleanings can prevent many common ear problems. If you think a problem may be developing that is beyond the scope of your home dog ear care routine, take your dog to the vet for a check up immediately. An infection, if left untreated, can be very painful for your dog and could even damage your dog’s hearing.

It’s hard to fathom how worms can live inside your dog’s beating heart, but they can, and if your pet gets infected they could severely damage his heart and lungs.

Heartworms spread by traveling inside mosquitoes as larvae. When infected mosquitoes bite your dog, the heartworm larvae transfer to your pet and work their way to his heart. Once there, the worms grow, feeding off the lining of the heart and plugging essential blood vessels.

Because mosquitoes spread them, heartworms are found throughout the world. In the United States, the incidence is highest along the southern Atlantic and Gulf coasts. The disease is less common along the northern borders and at higher elevations.

Prevention
If mosquitoes are biting you, chances are they’re biting your pet too, so you need to protect him from heartworm disease. Happily, new preventive medications cause few side effects, combine heartworm prevention with other parasite barriers, and come in convenient once-a-month doses.

If your dog is not taking preventive medicine and is six months or older, he may already be infected with reproducing adult heartworms. Your veterinarian needs to use a blood test to confirm that your pet is heartworm-free beforeyour dog can start taking the medication.

Why? If an infected dog takes heartworm prevention he runs the risk of an anaphylactic-shock reaction because the treatment involves a sudden killing of microfilaria, or baby heartworms, present in the bloodstream.

Products Available
There are several preventive medications on the market:

• Interceptor(milbemycin oxime) comes in a chewable tablet and guards against heartworms, hookworms, roundworms, and whipworms. 
• Sentinelcombines Interceptor with Program (lufenuron), a flea-control agent. 
• Heartgard Plus(ivermectin and pyrantel) comes in a chewable cube and guards against heartworms, hookworms, and roundworms. 
• Proheart(moxidectin) comes in tablet form and protects against heartworms. 
• Revolution (selamectin) is the latest in heartworm prevention technology. You apply a few drops of the liquid medication to your pet’s skin to guard against heartworms, fleas, ticks, ear mites, and sarcoptic mange mites.

Any of these prescription medications gives your pet excellent protection against heartworms.

If your dog does get heartworms, he can be treated. But the treatment involves expensive injections with potentially toxic reactions, so it’s best to start prevention early to preserve your pet’s health.

Unfortunately, cats don’t always connect with the litter box. Even cats that know the drill will sometimes choose another spot at home. “House-soiling” can become a concern for even the best cat owners. It can be a sign of a serious health issue or simply the result of changes around the house. Pay close attention for clues to put an early end to a nasty problem for both you and the pet you love.

Signs of a problem:

• A pattern of urinating and/or defecating outside the litter box
• Urine spraying – evidence of urine marks around doorways, windows or new objects in the house

• Spending longer than a normal amount of time in the litter box
• Vocalizing while in the litter box
• Going to the litter box more often than normal

Potential causes:

• Health issues ranging from diabetes mellitus to lower urinary tract disease
• A dirty litter box or inadequate number of boxes in the home. At least one box per cat plus one is recommended. The litter boxes need to be in different locations in the house – not all in one room.
• Litter box is located in a remote, noisy or unpleasant surrounding
• Litter box is inappropriate – covered boxes can maintain odors and large cats may not be able to move around enough in small boxes
• Wrong type of litter or sudden change in litter type
• Social changes, such as the addition of a new cat or the sudden presence of outdoor cats

If you change your cat’s litter box infrequently, travel a lot, or have multiple cats at home, you’re more likely to experience a “house-soiling” problem. Consider making adjustments based on the some of the factors described above. If the problem continues, see your veterinarian to investigate possible health problems.